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Sukkot Around the World

Baku rabbi: "We build sukkot without fear"

Rabbi Zamir Isayev, Sephardic rabbi of Azerbaijan's capital, describes a thriving Jewish community of up to 20,000 in a Muslim-majority nation, tens of thousands of Israeli tourists flooding the streets, and how the community mobilised to stop a Knesset move on the Armenian genocide that threatened the Israel-Azerbaijan alliance

Baku Rabbi: We Walk With Kippot and Build Sukkot Without Fear in This Muslim Country
Rabbi Zamir Isayev, Sephardic rabbi of Baku, capital of Azerbaijan, in a holiday interview
Rabbi Zamir Isayev, Sephardic rabbi of Baku, capital of Azerbaijan, in a holiday interview

While much of Europe and the world has seen a sharp rise in antisemitic incidents since the start of the Swords of Iron war, Azerbaijan, a country with an overwhelming Muslim majority, presents an entirely different picture. Rabbi Zamir Isayev, the Sephardic chief rabbi of Baku, the capital, describes a Jewish community that lives, celebrates and builds sukkot in full view, without fear.

"The Jewish community in Azerbaijan is among the oldest in the world; we count thousands of years of history here," Rabbi Isayev said. "Today the community numbers between 15,000 and 20,000 Jews living in the country, most of them here in Baku. Celebrating the Tishrei holidays in a place like this is a special experience. The most important thing for us is the ability to live, celebrate and keep our customs in complete freedom, without any fear or pressure. This is a Muslim country in a complicated region, but despite everything, the community is flourishing. On the last Yom Kippur, our three synagogues were filled to capacity, and people prayed in complete peace."

"We build sukkot in courtyards and walk freely with hats"

"The situation here is not just 'relatively' calm, it is simply calm and good," Rabbi Isayev said. "People here walk in the street with kippot on their heads, and some walk with hats and shtreimels, and there is no problem with it at all. These days people are building sukkot in the courtyards of their homes for the holiday."

The secret, he said, lies in the unique social fabric. "Azerbaijan is a country with a Muslim majority, but it is defined as a secular state. The warm and mutual relations between the Azerbaijani people and the Jewish people have been built over hundreds and thousands of years. The Jewish community is seen as an inseparable part of local society, as a patriotic asset that protects the interests of the state in the world. Out of this brotherhood, the deep strategic relations between Azerbaijan and Israel were also woven."

That partnership, Rabbi Isayev said, held firm even in the difficult period after October 7. "Azerbaijan did not distance itself from Israel, on the contrary. It continues to be the most important supplier of energy and oil to the State of Israel, and it shows firm support alongside Jerusalem."

The public campaign that saved the state alliance

During the conversation, the rabbi also touched on one of the most sensitive diplomatic storms of recent months: attempts by elements in Israel to advance recognition of the Armenian genocide, an issue considered explosive for the government and people of Baku.

"There was a certain disappointment, especially among the Jews of Azerbaijan," the rabbi said. "In Judaism we have a great mitzvah called hakarat hatov, gratitude. At a time when Israel does not have many true friends in the world, and especially a friend like Azerbaijan, it was strange to see a proposal that stems from internal political interests, when even the government of Armenia did not bother to thank anyone for it."

In response, the local Jewish community mobilised. "We launched a public campaign to prevent the move in the Knesset. Thanks to the chareidi representatives, including members of Shas and other factions like United Torah Judaism who understood the sensitivity and supported us, the matter was stopped. Serious damage to relations between the two countries was prevented, and they remain warm and strong."

A country with a Muslim majority
A country with a Muslim majority (envato)

Institutions and a tourism wave: "You hear Hebrew on the promenade"

Behind the positive atmosphere stands an extensive communal infrastructure that continues to develop rapidly. Baku today has two Jewish schools and two kindergartens, mikvaot, active synagogues and a kollel for Torah study throughout the day. Alongside these operates a local beit din, recognised and headed by Av Beit Din Rabbi Yaakov Chaviv, which maintains continuous contact with the Chief Rabbinate of Israel, as well as a kashrut system that supervises local restaurants. A dairy restaurant under strict kashrut supervision recently opened, and more restaurants are expected to open immediately after the holidays.

Much of the need for kosher facilities stems from an unprecedented flow of Israeli visitors to the country. "In July, about 25,000 tourists visited here, and in August the number jumped to close to 35,000," Rabbi Isayev said. "You can go out to the pedestrian mall or the promenade along the sea in Baku and hear Hebrew in every corner. You see Jews with kippot and women with head coverings walking freely and receiving warm and welcoming treatment from the local residents. It warms the heart and proves that there are still places in the world where Jews can feel safe and wanted."

Watch the full interview at the top of the article

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